The Complete Guide to Car Jacks and Axle Stands

The Fundamental Safety Rule

Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

This is the single most important safety rule in vehicle maintenance. A jack is a lifting device — it raises the vehicle. An axle stand is a support device — it holds the vehicle securely in the raised position while you work underneath.

Jacks can fail. Hydraulic seals can leak. Mechanical components can slip. The vehicle can shift. The ground can settle. If the vehicle drops while you are underneath it, the consequences are catastrophic — people are killed every year by vehicles falling from jacks.

An axle stand is a rigid, mechanical support that does not rely on hydraulic pressure, does not have seals that can leak, and does not have moving parts that can fail. Once the vehicle's weight is resting on a properly placed axle stand, the vehicle is securely supported — even if the jack is removed entirely.

The procedure is always: Jack the vehicle up. Place axle stands under the vehicle's support points. Lower the vehicle onto the axle stands. Remove the jack (or leave it as a secondary backup, but never as the primary support). Work under the vehicle. When finished, jack the vehicle up off the axle stands, remove the stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

How Car Jacks Work

All car jacks operate on the same principle: a mechanical or hydraulic mechanism converts a small force applied by the user into a much larger force that lifts the vehicle.

Mechanical jacks (scissor jacks) use a screw mechanism — turning a threaded rod expands or contracts a scissor linkage, raising or lowering the lifting pad.

Hydraulic jacks (trolley jacks and bottle jacks) use hydraulic fluid — pumping a handle pressurises fluid in a cylinder, which pushes a piston upward, raising the lifting pad. Releasing a valve allows the fluid to return, lowering the pad.

Scissor Jacks — The Emergency Tool

A scissor jack is a small, lightweight, mechanical jack — the type typically supplied with the vehicle in the boot as part of the emergency tyre-changing kit. It consists of a diamond-shaped scissor linkage operated by a threaded screw rod, usually turned with the vehicle's wheel brace or a dedicated handle.

Strengths

Compact and lightweight. Fits in the boot without taking significant space. Easy to store and transport.

Self-contained. No hydraulic fluid, no pumping mechanism. Simple mechanical operation.

Included with most vehicles. Often already in the boot.

Limitations

Slow. Raising the vehicle requires many turns of the screw — it takes time and effort.

Unstable. The small base provides limited stability, particularly on uneven or soft ground. The narrow contact point between the jack and the vehicle can slip if not precisely positioned.

Low capacity. Designed to lift one corner of the vehicle — typically rated for the vehicle's weight but without the generous margin that a workshop jack provides.

For emergency tyre changes only. The scissor jack is designed to raise the vehicle briefly for a tyre change at the roadside. It is not suitable for working under the vehicle — even with axle stands, its instability during the lifting process makes it a poor choice for workshop-style maintenance.

Trolley (Floor) Jacks — The Workshop Standard

A trolley jack (also called a floor jack) is a hydraulic jack mounted on a wheeled frame that rolls along the ground. The user pumps a long handle to raise the lifting arm, which pivots upward on the wheeled chassis.

Strengths

Fast. A few pumps of the handle raises the vehicle significantly — much faster than a scissor jack.

Stable. The wide, low-profile wheeled chassis provides a stable base. The long handle provides leverage and keeps the operator at a safe distance.

Smooth operation. The hydraulic mechanism provides controlled, smooth lifting and lowering.

Higher capacity. Trolley jacks are available in capacities from 1.5 tonnes (suitable for small cars) to 3 tonnes and above (suitable for SUVs, vans, and larger vehicles).

Low-profile options available. Some trolley jacks are designed with a very low minimum height — allowing them to fit under vehicles with low ground clearance (sports cars, lowered vehicles).

Limitations

Size and weight. A quality trolley jack is a substantial piece of equipment — heavier and larger than a scissor or bottle jack. Not practical for carrying in the boot as an emergency tool.

Requires a firm, level surface. The wheeled chassis needs a hard, flat surface to roll on (concrete garage floor, paving). Soft ground (grass, gravel, soft tarmac) allows the wheels to sink, reducing stability and lifting height.

The Recommendation

The trolley jack is the recommended jack type for anyone performing regular vehicle maintenance — tyre changes, brake work, suspension inspection, and any task that requires raising the vehicle at home. It is faster, more stable, and safer during the lifting process than a scissor jack.

Bottle Jacks — Compact Power

A bottle jack is a compact, upright hydraulic jack shaped like a bottle. The hydraulic ram extends vertically from the top of the cylindrical body. Bottle jacks are operated by pumping a lever or handle attached to the side.

Strengths

Very compact. The smallest hydraulic jack type — fits easily in a boot, toolbox, or storage space.

High capacity for their size. Bottle jacks are available in surprisingly high capacities — from 2 tonnes to 20 tonnes or more. Their compact size and high capacity make them popular for heavier vehicles (SUVs, trucks, caravans) where a trolley jack of equivalent capacity would be very large and heavy.

Simple and robust. Few moving parts, straightforward operation.

Limitations

Limited lift range. The minimum height (collapsed) is relatively high, which means bottle jacks may not fit under vehicles with low ground clearance. The maximum lift height is also limited compared to trolley jacks.

Small base. The base of a bottle jack is smaller than a trolley jack, providing less inherent stability. Positioning on a firm, level surface is critical.

No wheeled chassis. Unlike a trolley jack, a bottle jack does not roll — the vehicle moves slightly as it is raised (pivoting on the tyres still on the ground), and the jack must accommodate this movement without slipping.

Best For

Heavier vehicles (SUVs, vans, trucks, 4x4s) where a high-capacity, compact jack is needed. Emergency kit for larger vehicles where a trolley jack is impractical to carry. Static lifting where the vehicle is on a firm, level surface.

Weight Ratings — Understanding the Numbers

Every jack and every axle stand has a rated capacity — the maximum weight it is designed to safely support. This rating is displayed prominently on the equipment and must never be exceeded.

Vehicle Weight

To choose the correct capacity, you need to know the weight of your vehicle. The vehicle's kerb weight (the weight of the vehicle with all fluids but without passengers or cargo) is listed in the owner's manual and on the vehicle identification plate (often inside the driver's door frame).

The Practical Calculation

When you jack up one corner of the vehicle, the jack is supporting approximately one-quarter of the vehicle's weight (slightly more at the heavier end — front or rear depending on the engine location). A jack rated at half the vehicle's kerb weight provides a comfortable safety margin for lifting one corner.

Example: A vehicle weighing 1,500 kg (kerb weight). One corner weighs approximately 375–500 kg. A 2-tonne jack provides a comfortable margin.

Never Exceed the Rating

Weight ratings include a safety factor built in by the manufacturer — but they are not infinite. Exceeding the rated capacity overloads the hydraulic cylinder (on a jack), the locking mechanism (on an axle stand), or the structural components, increasing the risk of failure.

Always use equipment rated for at least half the vehicle's kerb weight — and preferably more. The modest cost of a higher-rated jack or axle stand is trivial compared to the consequences of equipment failure.

Lifting Points — Where to Place the Jack

Every vehicle has designated lifting points — specific locations on the underside of the body or chassis where the manufacturer has designed the structure to support the concentrated load of a jack.

Using the correct lifting points is essential for two reasons:

Vehicle damage. Placing the jack on an incorrect point — a floor panel, a sill cover, an oil sump, a suspension component — can crush, bend, or puncture the structure. The repair cost can be significant.

Safety. A jack placed on a point that is not designed to bear the load can slip, collapse, or cause the vehicle to shift during lifting.

The owner's manual shows the location of the lifting points for your specific vehicle. For most cars, the lifting points are reinforced sections of the sills (the structural members running along the bottom of the body between the front and rear wheels), marked with notches, arrows, or reinforced pads.

If you are unsure of the lifting points, consult the owner's manual or a vehicle-specific workshop resource before lifting.

Axle Stands — The Safety Equipment

An axle stand (also called a jack stand) is a rigid, adjustable, mechanical support that holds the vehicle securely in the raised position. It consists of a base (typically a tripod or flat plate), a vertical column, and an adjustable support head (V-shaped or flat) that engages with the vehicle's support point.

The height is adjusted by repositioning a pin through a series of holes in the column or by using a ratcheting mechanism — then the vehicle's weight is lowered onto the stand, and the stand supports the load through mechanical engagement rather than hydraulic pressure.

Why Axle Stands Are Non-Negotiable

A jack is a lifting device — it raises the vehicle. But hydraulic jacks rely on fluid pressure maintained by seals. If a seal leaks, the pressure drops and the vehicle descends. A mechanical jack (scissor) relies on a screw thread — if the screw slips or the jack is knocked, the vehicle drops.

An axle stand has no failure mode that causes gradual descent. The vehicle rests on a rigid, mechanically locked support. The stand either supports the load — or it was never properly placed. There is no intermediate state of slow failure.

This is why axle stands are the safety equipment that protects your life when you are under the vehicle.

Using Axle Stands Correctly

Step 1: Place the jack under the correct lifting point and raise the vehicle to the desired height.

Step 2: Position the axle stands under the vehicle's designated support points (which may be the same as the lifting points, or separate points specified for axle stand use — check the owner's manual).

Step 3: Adjust the stands to the correct height — the support head should be as close as possible to the underside of the vehicle without quite touching.

Step 4: Slowly lower the jack, transferring the vehicle's weight onto the axle stands. The vehicle should settle firmly and squarely onto the stands.

Step 5: Before going under the vehicle, test the stability. Push the vehicle firmly from the side — it should not rock, shift, or feel unstable. If it does, the stands are not correctly positioned.

Step 6: Leave the jack in place as a secondary backup (not as the primary support).

Always use axle stands in pairs — both sides of the same axle. Raising one side only creates an unstable, tilted vehicle. Raising one side and supporting it on a single stand is less stable than supporting both sides.

Vehicle Ramps — The Alternative

Vehicle ramps are inclined surfaces that the vehicle is driven up, raising the front (or rear) of the vehicle to a working height. Once the vehicle is on the ramps, it is supported by the ramps' structure — no jacks or axle stands are needed.

Strengths

Very stable. The vehicle rests on a wide, solid surface with all four tyres still on the ground (or on the ramp surface). The risk of the vehicle falling is extremely low.

Simple. Drive up, chock the wheels at the other end, and work. No pumping, no adjusting, no transferring weight.

Practical for oil changes, exhaust inspection, and underside access where you need to get under the vehicle but do not need to remove a wheel.

Limitations

The wheels remain on. Ramps raise the vehicle but do not provide access to the wheels — you cannot change a tyre, inspect brakes, or remove a wheel while the vehicle is on ramps. For any task that requires wheel removal, a jack and axle stands are needed.

Ground clearance. The approach angle of the ramp must be shallow enough for the vehicle to drive up without the front bumper or spoiler hitting the ramp. Low-slung vehicles may not clear standard ramps.

The vehicle must be driven onto them. This means the vehicle must be driveable — ramps are not useful for a vehicle that cannot move.

Best For

Oil changes, exhaust inspections, underside visual checks, and any maintenance that requires access under the vehicle but not wheel removal. Ramps are an excellent complement to a jack and axle stand set — not a replacement.

Ground Conditions — The Overlooked Factor

Jacks, axle stands, and ramps all depend on a firm, level surface to function safely.

Concrete (garage floor, driveway) — Ideal. Hard, level, and stable.

Tarmac/asphalt — Adequate in moderate temperatures. In hot weather, the tarmac surface can soften, allowing jack wheels to sink and stands to settle. Use wide, flat boards under the jack and stand bases to distribute the load.

Gravel — Poor. Loose, unstable surface. Jacks and stands can shift, settle, or topple. Avoid if possible; if unavoidable, use large, flat boards under all equipment.

Grass/soil — Dangerous. Soft, uneven, and unstable. Jacks sink, stands settle unevenly, and the vehicle can shift. Never work under a vehicle on grass or soft ground — even with axle stands.

Slopes — Dangerous. Working on a slope adds a lateral force that can cause the vehicle to roll off the jack or stands. Always work on level ground. If a slight slope is unavoidable, chock the wheels at the lower end and ensure the vehicle is in gear (manual) or park (automatic) with the handbrake applied.

Choosing the Right Equipment — A Comparison

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack. The single most dangerous mistake in vehicle maintenance. Always use axle stands.

Using a jack or stands with insufficient capacity. Check the vehicle's kerb weight and choose equipment rated to handle it with a comfortable margin.

Jacking at the wrong point. Using an incorrect lifting point can damage the vehicle and cause the jack to slip. Consult the owner's manual for the correct lifting points.

Working on soft or uneven ground. Jacks and stands need a firm, level surface. Grass, gravel, and soft tarmac are unsafe.

Not chocking the wheels. When raising one end of the vehicle, the wheels at the other end must be chocked (wedged with blocks) to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

Using a single axle stand. Always use stands in pairs — supporting both sides of the raised axle. A single stand creates an unstable, asymmetric support.

Not testing stability before going under. After placing the vehicle on axle stands, push the vehicle firmly to verify it is stable before getting underneath.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

What is your vehicle's kerb weight?

Check the owner's manual or the vehicle identification plate. Choose equipment rated for at least half the kerb weight (and preferably more).

Do you need a trolley jack, bottle jack, or scissor jack?

Trolley jack for regular home maintenance. Bottle jack for compact high-capacity lifting. Scissor jack for emergency tyre changes only.

Do you have axle stands?

Essential for any work under the vehicle. Buy a pair rated for the same capacity as (or higher than) the jack.

Do you have vehicle ramps?

Useful complement for oil changes and underside access where wheel removal is not needed.

Do you have a firm, level surface to work on?

Concrete or solid paving. Not grass, gravel, or soft tarmac.

Do you have wheel chocks?

Essential for preventing the vehicle from rolling when raised at one end.

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