The Complete Guide to Guitar Accessories — Strings, Picks, Capos, Tuners, Straps, and Cases

Why Accessories Matter

A guitar without accessories is an incomplete instrument. You cannot keep it in tune without a tuner. You cannot carry it safely without a case. The strings it came with will wear out. And many of the accessories — particularly strings, picks, and a strap — directly affect how the guitar sounds, feels, and plays.

The right accessories do not need to be expensive, but they do need to be appropriate. A good set of strings costs little and transforms the sound of a guitar. A reliable tuner costs less than a meal and ensures every practice session starts in tune. A quality strap costs a fraction of the guitar price and prevents back pain during standing practice.

Think of accessories as the supporting cast — individually modest, collectively essential.

Strings — The Most Important Accessory

Strings are the single most impactful, most affordable upgrade for any guitar. Old, dead strings make even an expensive guitar sound dull and lifeless. Fresh strings make a modest guitar come alive.

Acoustic Guitar Strings

Acoustic guitar strings are made from steel (plain steel for the treble strings, steel core wrapped with bronze or phosphor bronze for the bass strings).

80/20 Bronze — Bright, crisp, and projecting when new. The brightness fades relatively quickly as the bronze oxidises. Popular for strumming and live performance where projection matters.

Phosphor Bronze — Warmer, slightly less bright than 80/20 bronze, but with longer-lasting tone. Phosphor bronze strings maintain their brightness longer before dulling. The most popular acoustic string type overall.

Coated strings — Standard strings with a thin polymer coating that protects the winding from dirt, sweat, and oxidation. Coated strings last significantly longer than uncoated strings — often two to three times as long. The trade-off is a slightly different feel (the coating makes the strings marginally smoother) and a marginally brighter, less organic initial tone. For players who dislike changing strings or who have corrosive sweat, coated strings are an excellent investment.

String gauge (thickness) affects playability and tone. Lighter gauges (thinner strings) are easier to press and bend — recommended for beginners. Heavier gauges (thicker strings) produce more volume and fuller tone but require more finger pressure.

Electric Guitar Strings

Electric guitar strings are made from steel (plain for trebles, nickel-plated steel or pure nickel wound for bass strings).

Nickel-plated steel — The standard. Bright, balanced tone with good magnetic response for the pickups.

Pure nickel — Warmer, smoother, more vintage-sounding than nickel-plated steel. Less bright, more mellow.

Stainless steel — Bright, long-lasting, resistant to corrosion. Slightly rougher feel.

Electric guitar string gauges range from extra-light (easiest to play, thinnest tone) through to heavy (most resistance, fullest tone). A set of 9s (0.009-inch high E string) or 10s (0.010-inch) is standard for most players. Beginners often prefer 9s for their lower tension.

Classical Guitar Strings

Nylon strings for classical guitars are categorised by tension (low, normal, high) rather than gauge. Normal tension is the recommended starting point. See the classical guitar guide for more detail.

Bass Guitar Strings

Bass strings are categorised by gauge, construction (roundwound, flatwound, halfwound), and material.

Roundwound — The standard. Bright, articulate, with a textured feel under the fingers. Used in most genres.

Flatwound — Smooth surface, warm, mellow, thuddy tone with less sustain. Used in jazz, Motown, and classic soul. Flatwound strings feel silky under the fingers and produce almost no finger noise (the sliding sound that roundwound strings make).

Halfwound (groundwound) — A compromise between roundwound brightness and flatwound smoothness.

When to Change Strings

Change strings when they sound dull (noticeably less bright and alive than when they were new), when they will not stay in tune, when they show visible wear (discolouration, flat spots, fraying), or before any recording or performance where tone quality matters.

How often this occurs depends on how much you play, how much your hands perspire, and whether you wipe down the strings after playing (which extends their life). As a rough guide: regular players typically change strings every few weeks to a couple of months. Casual players may change less frequently.

Picks (Plectrums) — Thickness, Material, and Shape

A pick (plectrum) is the small, flat tool held between the thumb and index finger to strike the strings. Picks come in an enormous range of thicknesses, materials, and shapes — and the choice genuinely affects your sound and playing feel.

Thickness

Thin picks (0.38–0.60 mm): Flexible, producing a lighter, brighter sound with less volume. Good for strumming acoustic guitar. Less control for individual note picking.

Medium picks (0.60–0.85 mm): The most versatile thickness. Enough flexibility for comfortable strumming, enough stiffness for clear single-note picking. The recommended starting point.

Heavy picks (0.85–1.5 mm and above): Stiff, producing a warmer, louder, more controlled tone. Preferred by lead guitar players who want precision and power. Less suitable for light strumming.

Material

Nylon — Flexible, smooth, warm tone. The most common pick material.

Celluloid — Traditional, slightly brighter tone than nylon. Classic feel.

Tortex and Delrin — Textured surface for grip, consistent flex, durable. Very popular with electric guitarists.

Ultem — Stiff, bright, loud. Mimics the tonal properties of traditional tortoiseshell.

Shape

Standard teardrop shapes work for virtually all playing styles. Jazz picks are smaller and pointed for precision. Larger triangle picks provide more grip area and three usable points.

Picks are inexpensive enough to experiment with. Buy a variety pack (assorted thicknesses and materials) and discover what suits your playing style and feel preferences.

Tuners — Clip-On, Pedal, and App-Based

Playing an out-of-tune guitar sounds bad regardless of skill level. A reliable tuner is a non-negotiable accessory.

Clip-On Tuners

A small electronic tuner that clips onto the headstock of the guitar and detects pitch through vibrations in the wood. Clip-on tuners work in noisy environments (they ignore ambient sound), are portable, and require no cable connection. They are the most popular tuner type for acoustic and electric guitarists and the recommended first tuner for any player.

Pedal Tuners

A floor-mounted tuner that connects inline between the guitar and amplifier via a cable. When activated, it mutes the guitar signal (so the audience does not hear tuning) and displays the pitch on a bright, visible screen. Pedal tuners are the standard for electric guitarists who perform live — fast, accurate, and visible on a dark stage.

App-Based Tuners

Smartphone apps that detect pitch through the phone's microphone. Free or very inexpensive. They work adequately in quiet environments but are less reliable in noisy settings. A reasonable starting point if you do not have a clip-on tuner, but not a replacement for a dedicated tuner for regular use.

Built-In Tuners

Many acoustic-electric guitars and some bass amplifiers include a built-in tuner. Convenient when available, but typically less precise and less visible than a dedicated tuner.

Capos — What They Do and When You Need One

A capo is a clamp that attaches across the guitar neck at any fret position, pressing all the strings down against the fretboard. It effectively raises the pitch of the guitar — placing a capo at the second fret raises the guitar's pitch by one whole tone, for example. The open chord shapes you play above the capo sound in a higher key without needing to learn new chord fingerings.

Capos are enormously popular with singer-songwriters (allowing them to play familiar chord shapes in keys that suit their vocal range), worship musicians, and folk and pop guitarists. They are simple, inexpensive, and transform the creative possibilities of familiar chord shapes.

Capo Types

Trigger (spring) capos — The most common type. A spring-loaded clamp that snaps onto the neck with one hand. Fast to apply and move. The spring tension is fixed, which means it may apply more pressure than necessary on some guitars.

Screw capos — Adjustable tension via a screw mechanism. Allow you to dial in the exact pressure needed — enough to hold the strings down without excess pressure that can pull the guitar out of tune. Slightly slower to apply than trigger capos but more precise.

Partial capos — Capo only some strings, leaving others open. Used for creative alternate tunings and drone effects.

A basic trigger capo is sufficient for most players. It is an inexpensive accessory that significantly expands your musical options.

Straps — Comfort, Width, and Material

A guitar strap holds the guitar in playing position while standing. The strap attaches to two strap buttons (pins) on the guitar body — one at the bottom of the body and one near the neck (on most electric guitars and some acoustics; acoustics without a neck strap button often require the strap to be tied to the headstock).

Width

Wider straps (7–10 cm / 3–4 inches) distribute the weight across a broader area of the shoulder, reducing pressure points and fatigue. Essential for heavy instruments (bass guitars, large-body electrics).

Narrower straps (5 cm / 2 inches) are lighter and less bulky but concentrate weight on a smaller area. Adequate for lightweight guitars.

Material

Nylon (woven webbing) — Lightweight, affordable, adjustable, and durable. The standard strap material. Can slip on smooth clothing.

Leather — Grippy (stays in place on clothing), durable, comfortable, and ages well. More expensive than nylon. The traditional choice for heavier instruments and longer playing sessions.

Padded straps — Any material with added foam or neoprene padding at the shoulder area. Recommended for heavy instruments and for any player who stands for extended periods.

Strap Locks

Strap locks are small locking mechanisms that prevent the strap from accidentally disconnecting from the strap button — a genuine risk that can result in a guitar falling to the floor. Strap locks are an inexpensive insurance policy, particularly for expensive instruments.

Cases and Gig Bags — Protecting Your Guitar

Hard Cases

Rigid cases (typically wood or moulded plastic with a plush interior) provide the most protection against impact, pressure, and temperature changes. Hard cases are essential for transport in vehicles, on flights, and in any situation where the guitar may be bumped, stacked upon, or exposed to rough handling.

Hard cases are heavier and bulkier than gig bags, which is the trade-off for the superior protection they offer.

Gig Bags

Padded soft bags with shoulder straps and accessory pockets. Gig bags are lighter, easier to carry, and more practical for daily transport (walking to lessons, carrying on public transport, taking to a friend's house). They provide protection against scratches, dust, and minor bumps but do not protect against significant impact or crushing force.

Padding thickness varies — budget gig bags have thin padding, while premium gig bags have dense padding up to 25 mm thick, approaching the protection level of a hard case while remaining lighter and more portable.

Which to Choose?

A gig bag for everyday use and light transport. A hard case for serious transport (touring, flying, vehicle storage) and for valuable instruments that warrant maximum protection.

Guitar Stands and Hangers

A guitar left leaning against a wall or lying on a sofa is a guitar waiting to fall. Guitar stands and hangers hold the instrument safely when not in use.

Floor stands — A-frame or tripod stands that hold the guitar upright. Compact, portable, and practical for practice spaces and stages. Ensure the stand has rubber or foam contact points that do not react with the guitar finish (some rubbers can damage certain finishes over time).

Wall hangers — Mount to the wall and hold the guitar by the headstock. Wall hangers save floor space, display the guitar attractively, and keep it accessible. They must be securely mounted into a solid wall or stud — a hanger that pulls out of the wall drops the guitar.

Multi-guitar stands and racks — Hold multiple guitars side by side. Useful for players with collections or for rehearsal rooms and studios.

String Winders and Cutters

String winders speed up the process of turning tuning pegs when fitting new strings. A simple hand-cranked winder is inexpensive and saves significant time and wrist fatigue compared to turning each peg by hand. Many winders also incorporate a bridge pin puller (for acoustic guitars) and a string cutter.

String cutters — Dedicated cutters or wire cutters for trimming excess string after installation. Sharp cutters produce a clean cut; blunt cutters leave a ragged, dangerous end.

Cleaning and Maintenance Supplies

Microfibre cloth — For wiping the guitar body, neck, and strings after playing. Removing sweat and oils extends string life and keeps the finish clean.

Fretboard conditioner — Lemon oil or specialist fretboard oil applied to unfinished fretboards (rosewood, ebony) during string changes to prevent drying and cracking. Not needed for finished (lacquered, maple) fretboards.

Polish — Guitar-specific polish for maintaining the finish. Do not use household furniture polish — it can damage guitar finishes.

Humidity control — For acoustic guitars, maintaining consistent humidity (approximately 45–55 per cent relative humidity) prevents the wood from cracking (too dry) or swelling (too humid). Guitar humidifiers (small devices placed inside the soundhole or case) help maintain safe humidity in dry environments.

Slides

A guitar slide is a smooth tube (glass, metal, or ceramic) worn on a finger that is pressed against the strings to produce a smooth, gliding, vocal-like tone. Slide guitar is a distinctive technique used in blues, country, rock, and folk music.

Glass slides produce a warm, smooth, slightly compressed tone.

Metal slides (brass, steel, chrome) produce a brighter, louder, more aggressive tone.

Ceramic slides fall between glass and metal in tone — warm but with more presence than glass.

Slides come in various lengths and diameters to fit different finger sizes. Most slide players wear the slide on the ring or little finger to keep other fingers free for fretting.

Metronomes

A metronome produces a steady click at a set tempo, helping you develop consistent timing — one of the most fundamental and important musical skills. Practising with a metronome from the earliest stages builds rhythmic accuracy that becomes ingrained in your playing.

Digital metronomes — Small, portable, with a range of tempo settings and beat patterns. Some include a tuner.

App-based metronomes — Free or inexpensive smartphone apps that provide the same functionality. Convenient since most people have their phone during practice.

Mechanical metronomes — Traditional wind-up devices with a visible swinging pendulum. No batteries needed. Some players prefer the visual reference of the pendulum.

Choosing the Right Accessories — A Comparison

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Not changing strings. Old strings sound dull and will not stay in tune. Change them regularly.

Using the wrong string type. Steel strings on a classical guitar (or nylon on a steel-string) will damage the instrument or produce poor results. Match the strings to the guitar.

Not owning a tuner. Playing out of tune is the single most common sound problem. A clip-on tuner costs very little and solves it completely.

Buying a case that does not fit. Guitar case and gig bag sizes are specific to body shapes (dreadnought, concert, classical, electric). Ensure the case matches the guitar.

Ignoring humidity for acoustic guitars. Wood acoustic guitars can crack in very dry conditions. A simple guitar humidifier prevents this.

Leaning the guitar against a wall. It will fall. Use a stand or hanger.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

Do you have spare strings?

Essential. Keep at least one spare set at all times.

Do you have a tuner?

Non-negotiable. A clip-on tuner is the most versatile starting choice.

Do you have a case or gig bag?

Required for safe transport and storage.

Do you have a strap?

Needed for standing practice and performance. Wider and padded for heavier instruments.

Do you have picks?

For steel-string acoustic and electric guitar. A variety pack for experimentation.

Do you have a capo?

Not essential but enormously useful for acoustic guitar — strongly recommended.

Why Buying Through Amazon Is a Smart Option

Amazon carries guitar accessories from strings and picks through to cases, tuners, straps, capos, and maintenance supplies. Customer reviews from guitarists describe string tone, tuner accuracy, case fit, and strap comfort.