The Complete Guide to Mandolins, Banjos, and Folk Stringed Instruments

What Folk Stringed Instruments Are

Folk stringed instruments are the instruments that built the traditional music of communities across Europe, the Americas, and beyond — before concert halls, before amplification, before recording studios. They were played in homes, at dances, in pubs, on porches, and at gatherings. They are the instruments of ordinary people making music together.

What unites them is not a single design or technique but a shared purpose: music for participation, not just performance. Folk instruments are designed to be played in groups, to accompany singing and dancing, to be portable enough to carry to a session, and to be accessible enough for a motivated beginner to join in. The traditions around these instruments — bluegrass jam sessions, Irish trad sessions, old-time string bands, folk clubs — are as much about community as they are about music.

This guide covers the most popular folk stringed instruments: mandolins, banjos, bouzoukis, autoharps, and dulcimers. Each has its own character, repertoire, and community — and each offers a distinctive musical experience that larger, more mainstream instruments do not.

Mandolins — The Ringing Bell of Bluegrass and Beyond

The mandolin is a small, eight-stringed instrument (four pairs of strings, each pair tuned to the same note — called courses). It is tuned G–D–A–E, the same as a violin but an octave lower, and is played with a plectrum (pick) rather than a bow.

The mandolin's defining sound is the tremolo — a rapid back-and-forth picking of a string pair that produces a sustained, shimmering, bell-like tone. Because individual mandolin notes decay quickly (the strings are short and the body is small), the tremolo technique creates the illusion of sustained notes — and it gives the mandolin its singing, ringing character.

The mandolin is central to bluegrass (where it plays both rhythm chops and blazing lead lines), Italian folk and classical music (where it has a long tradition as both a solo and ensemble instrument), Irish traditional music (where it plays melody lines alongside fiddles and flutes), country, folk, Americana, and Celtic music. It also appears in classical orchestral writing and has a growing presence in indie and alternative rock.

What to Look For in a Mandolin

Top wood — Spruce is the standard. A solid spruce top vibrates freely and produces a bright, resonant tone. Laminate tops are found on entry-level instruments and produce a functional but less vibrant sound.

Back and sides — Maple is traditional. Solid maple produces a bright, projecting tone. Mahogany produces a warmer, darker tone.

Tuning machines — Should turn smoothly and hold tuning accurately. The mandolin has eight strings under significant tension — poor tuning machines make the instrument frustrating.

Bridge and nut — Should be properly fitted, with clean string slots and correct string spacing. The bridge height (action) affects playability — strings too high make the instrument tiring to play.

Fret quality — Frets should be level, smooth, and properly crowned. Uneven frets cause buzzing and intonation problems.

Mandolin Body Shapes — A-Style and F-Style

A-Style (Pear-Shaped or Oval)

The A-style mandolin has a symmetrical, pear-shaped or oval body — a simple, elegant design. A-style mandolins are generally less expensive to produce (the body shape is simpler) and produce a warm, balanced tone. They are used across all mandolin styles — folk, Celtic, classical, and bluegrass.

F-Style (Scroll and Points)

The F-style mandolin has an asymmetrical body with a decorative scroll on the upper bout and one or two points on the body. The F-style was originally designed for presentation — the scroll and points are primarily aesthetic rather than acoustic. F-style mandolins are strongly associated with bluegrass music and are considered the traditional bluegrass instrument.

There is some tonal difference between the shapes — F-style instruments can have a slightly brighter, more focused tone due to the body shape and internal bracing — but the difference is subtle, and both shapes produce excellent mandolin sound. The choice between A-style and F-style is partly about the music you play, partly about aesthetics, and partly about budget (F-style instruments are typically more expensive because of the more complex construction).

For beginners: An A-style mandolin offers excellent value and is appropriate for any musical style. An F-style is a worthwhile choice if bluegrass is your primary interest and your budget allows.

Banjos — Brightness, Drive, and Rhythm

The banjo is a stringed instrument with a thin membrane (originally animal skin, now typically synthetic plastic) stretched over a circular frame — essentially a drum with a neck attached. The membrane vibrating produces the banjo's characteristic bright, percussive, cutting tone — a sound that projects through any ensemble and drives the rhythm forward with unmistakable energy.

The most common banjo is the five-string banjo, which has four long strings running the full length of the neck plus a short fifth string (the drone string) that begins partway up the neck and produces a constant, ringing high note. This drone string is unique to the banjo and is central to its sound.

Playing Styles

Clawhammer (frailing) — A rhythmic, downward brushing technique used in old-time and traditional folk music. The player strikes the strings with the back of the fingernail in a flowing, rhythmic motion. Clawhammer produces a warm, rhythmic, hypnotic sound.

Three-finger picking (Scruggs style) — A rapid, rolling picking technique using thumb and two fingers, each wearing a metal fingerpick. This is the signature bluegrass banjo sound — fast, bright, and driving, with a continuous cascade of notes.

Folk strumming — Simple strumming with a pick or fingers, used in folk, country, and singer-songwriter contexts.

What to Look For in a Banjo

Head (membrane) — Synthetic heads are standard and durable. The head material and tension affect the tone — tighter heads produce a brighter sound.

Rim (pot) — The circular body that supports the head. Wood, metal, or a combination. The rim material and construction affect the resonance and tone.

Neck — Should be straight, with smooth frets and comfortable action. The neck joins the rim at the coordinator rod (which holds the neck in alignment).

Tuning machines — Five tuning pegs need to turn smoothly and hold accurately. The fifth string peg is often a friction peg — geared fifth-string tuners are a worthwhile upgrade.

Weight — Banjos vary significantly in weight. Lighter banjos are more comfortable for extended playing; heavier banjos (particularly resonator models) produce more volume and sustain.

Open-Back vs Resonator Banjos

This is the most fundamental distinction in banjo construction, and it affects the sound, weight, volume, and musical style of the instrument.

Open-Back Banjos

The back of the rim is open — you can see the back of the head. Open-back banjos produce a mellower, warmer, quieter tone with less sustain and less projection. They are lighter and more comfortable to hold.

Open-back banjos are the standard for clawhammer and old-time playing — the mellower sound complements the rhythmic, flowing character of these styles. They are also popular for folk, singer-songwriter, and casual playing.

Resonator Banjos

A wooden resonator (a bowl-shaped back) is attached to the rim, projecting the sound forward and adding volume, brightness, and sustain. Resonator banjos are louder, brighter, and heavier than open-back models.

Resonator banjos are the standard for bluegrass — the bright, projecting, driving sound is essential for cutting through a bluegrass ensemble. The added volume and sustain support the rapid three-finger picking style.

Which Should You Choose?

Old-time or clawhammer → open-back. The mellower sound is correct for the style, and the lighter weight is comfortable.

Bluegrass → resonator. The brightness and projection are essential for the style.

Folk, singer-songwriter, or general use → either. Open-back is lighter and mellower; resonator is louder and brighter. Personal preference applies.

Not sure yet → open-back. Lighter, cheaper, and versatile. A resonator can be added to some open-back models later. Moving from open-back to resonator is easier than the reverse.

Tenor Banjos and Other Banjo Variants

Tenor Banjo

A four-string banjo (no drone string) with a shorter neck, tuned in fifths (C–G–D–A, like a viola). The tenor banjo is played with a pick and is central to Irish traditional music (where it plays melody lines at speed) and Dixieland jazz. It has a brighter, more focused tone than the five-string and is a melody instrument rather than a chord-strumming or picking instrument.

Plectrum Banjo

A four-string banjo with a longer neck (the same scale length as a five-string but without the drone string). Tuned C–G–B–D. Used primarily in Dixieland jazz and chord-melody playing.

Banjolele (Banjo Ukulele)

A small banjo-shaped instrument with four ukulele strings. The banjolele combines the bright, percussive banjo tone with the easy playability and chord shapes of the ukulele. It is a fun, characterful instrument — famously associated with George Formby — and an excellent novelty for ukulele players who want a different sound.

Six-String Banjo (Guitar Banjo)

A banjo with six strings tuned like a guitar. Allows guitar players to achieve a banjo-like tone without learning new chord shapes or techniques. Not considered a traditional banjo by purists, but practical for guitar players who want banjo colour in their sound.

Bouzoukis and Octave Mandolins

Irish Bouzouki

The Irish bouzouki (adapted from the Greek bouzouki) is a long-necked, four-course (eight-string) instrument tuned G–D–A–D or G–D–A–E. It has a flat back (unlike the round-backed Greek bouzouki) and produces a rich, resonant, droning tone that provides both harmonic accompaniment and melodic capability.

The Irish bouzouki is central to Irish traditional music accompaniment — its open tunings and long sustain create a harmonic bed that supports fiddles, flutes, pipes, and voices. It is also used in folk, Celtic, and world music contexts.

Octave Mandolin

The octave mandolin is tuned one octave below the mandolin (G–D–A–E, like the mandolin, but an octave lower). It has a larger body than the mandolin and produces a deeper, more resonant tone — warmer and fuller, with more sustain. It is used in Celtic, folk, and acoustic music for both melody and accompaniment.

Both instruments offer a distinctive voice that fills a specific role in acoustic ensembles — deeper and more resonant than the mandolin, more focused than the guitar, and rich with harmonic possibilities from their paired strings.

Autoharps and Zithers

Autoharp

The autoharp is a stringed instrument with a series of chord bars that, when pressed, dampen all strings except those that form the selected chord. The player presses a chord bar with one hand and strums the strings with the other — producing a full, harp-like chord with minimal technical difficulty.

The autoharp is one of the most immediately accessible stringed instruments. A complete beginner can produce beautiful, harmonically correct chords from the first strum. It is widely used in folk music, Appalachian music, music education, and singing accompaniment.

Autoharps typically have 15 or 21 chord bars, covering major, minor, and seventh chords in the most common keys. The instrument can be played on a table or held against the chest.

Zithers

The zither family includes a wide range of flat-bodied stringed instruments played by plucking or strumming. The concert zither (common in Austrian and Bavarian folk music) has melody strings over a fretted fingerboard and open accompaniment strings. Other zither-type instruments include the psaltery, the kantele, and various lap harps.

Dulcimers — Mountain and Hammered

Mountain Dulcimer (Appalachian Dulcimer)

The mountain dulcimer is a long, narrow, fretted instrument laid flat on the lap or a table and strummed or picked. It typically has three or four strings and a diatonic fret pattern (only the notes of the major scale, with no sharps or flats) — which means it is extremely difficult to play a wrong note. This makes the mountain dulcimer one of the most forgiving and accessible stringed instruments for beginners.

The sound is gentle, sweet, and delicate — suited to Appalachian folk songs, ballads, hymns, and quiet acoustic music. The mountain dulcimer has a devoted community of players and a rich repertoire.

Hammered Dulcimer

The hammered dulcimer is a large, trapezoidal instrument with many strings stretched over a wooden soundboard, played by striking the strings with small wooden hammers held in each hand. It produces a bright, shimmering, bell-like cascade of notes — similar to a piano without the mechanical action, or a harp struck rather than plucked.

The hammered dulcimer is used in Celtic, folk, classical, and world music. It is a visually and sonically striking instrument with a steep but rewarding learning curve. The coordination required to strike precise strings with both hands simultaneously is demanding but produces music of extraordinary beauty.

Choosing the Right Instrument for the Music You Love

Finding the Community — Sessions, Jams, and Clubs

Folk instruments come alive in community. Learning mandolin, banjo, bouzouki, or dulcimer in isolation is possible, but the real joy and the fastest musical development come from playing with other people.

Bluegrass jams — Informal gatherings where players sit in a circle and take turns playing songs. Bluegrass jams follow established etiquette (taking turns on solos, following the song leader, keeping time) and welcome players at all levels. Many music shops, community centres, and festivals host regular jams.

Irish trad sessions — Pub-based or venue-based gatherings where musicians play traditional tunes together. Sessions have their own etiquette (listen before joining in, follow the pace of the session, do not play too loudly). Tenor banjo, mandolin, and bouzouki players are welcome in most sessions.

Old-time jams — Similar to bluegrass jams but focused on old-time repertoire and clawhammer banjo. Old-time music is participatory by nature — the emphasis is on the collective rhythm rather than individual virtuosity.

Folk clubs — Organised events featuring both performers and open-mic or floor-singer slots. Excellent for singer-songwriters who accompany themselves on folk instruments.

Festivals — Bluegrass, folk, and Celtic music festivals offer workshops, jams, and performances that immerse you in the tradition and connect you with other players.

Finding your local musical community transforms the instrument from a hobby into a social and cultural connection. Search for local sessions, jams, or folk clubs — they exist in more places than you might expect.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Buying based on appearance rather than sound. F-style mandolins and ornate banjos are beautiful, but the sound and playability matter more than the looks. A well-made A-style mandolin or a simple open-back banjo can be musically superior to a more expensive but poorly set-up ornate instrument.

Choosing the wrong banjo type for the music. A resonator banjo for clawhammer playing or an open-back banjo for bluegrass will constantly fight the musical style. Match the instrument to the tradition.

Not learning the tradition. Folk instruments are deeply connected to their musical communities. Attending a jam session, folk club, or Irish trad session — even just to listen — teaches more about how the instrument is used than any amount of solitary practice.

Ignoring setup quality. As with all stringed instruments, the setup (bridge height, nut slots, fret condition, string action) determines playability. A professional setup transforms a budget instrument.

Buying too cheap. Very cheap banjos and mandolins often have poor tuning stability, rough frets, and weak tone. A modest increase in budget buys an instrument that stays in tune and rewards practice.

Assuming mandolin is easy because it is small. The mandolin is physically small but technically demanding. The paired strings require precise picking, the frets are close together, and playing fast bluegrass or Celtic passages takes significant practice. The instrument rewards persistence.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

What music do you want to play?

This determines the instrument, the type, and the configuration. Match the instrument to the tradition.

Mandolin: A-style or F-style?

A-style for value and versatility. F-style for the traditional bluegrass look (at a higher price).

Banjo: open-back or resonator?

Open-back for old-time, clawhammer, folk, and lighter playing. Resonator for bluegrass.

Banjo: five-string or tenor?

Five-string for bluegrass, old-time, and folk. Tenor for Irish traditional and Dixieland jazz.

Solid top or laminate?

Solid spruce top provides better resonance. Quality laminate is acceptable at entry level.

Is the instrument properly set up?

Check tuning machines, frets, action, and bridge. A setup by a luthier or specialist transforms playability.

Do you have a tuner?

Essential for all stringed instruments. Clip-on tuners work well for mandolins and banjos.

Why Buying Through Amazon Is a Smart Option

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