The Complete Guide to Buying a Dog Crate

A crate is not a cage — it is the closest thing your dog has to a room of their own. Chosen well and introduced properly, it becomes the place they go to feel safe, sleep soundly, and settle when the world gets too busy. Chosen badly, it becomes a source of stress for everyone. This guide helps you get it right.

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Why Crates Matter — And Why They Are Not Cruel

There is a common worry among first-time dog owners that putting a dog in a crate is unkind. It is an understandable concern, and worth addressing directly.

A crate used properly is not a punishment. It is a management tool and a safe space. Dogs are den animals by nature — they seek out small, enclosed areas when they want to rest, feel overwhelmed, or simply need to be left alone. A crate gives them that space on their terms.

Used badly — as a place to shut a dog away for hours on end, or as a substitute for proper training and exercise — a crate absolutely can become a problem. The tool is not the issue. The way it is used is everything.

Crates serve several practical purposes that benefit both dog and owner. They are one of the most effective aids for house training puppies, because dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area. They keep dogs safe when you cannot supervise them — particularly during the destructive chewing phase that most puppies go through. They provide a familiar, portable space when travelling. And for many dogs, the crate becomes the place they choose to sleep, rest, and retreat to throughout their entire lives.

Understanding How Dogs Think About Enclosed Spaces

Wolves and wild canids seek out dens for whelping and resting. Domestic dogs retain this instinct to varying degrees. You have probably noticed your dog choosing to sleep under a table, behind a sofa, or in the space beneath a desk. They are selecting the enclosed, sheltered spot because it feels safe to them.

A well-sized crate replicates this feeling. It is large enough for the dog to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but small enough to feel enclosed and secure. This is why oversized crates can actually be counterproductive — they lose the den-like quality that makes the crate appealing in the first place.

The Five Main Types of Dog Crate

Each type has genuine strengths and genuine weaknesses. There is no single best crate — only the best crate for your particular dog and situation.

Wire Crates

Wire crates are the most popular type and the best starting point for most owners. They are made from welded steel or iron wire panels, usually with a removable plastic tray at the base.

What makes them good: Wire crates offer excellent ventilation, which matters in warmer climates and for thick-coated breeds. Most fold flat for storage and transport. They give the dog full visibility of their surroundings, which helps anxious dogs feel less isolated. Many models come with divider panels, allowing you to adjust the internal space as a puppy grows — this means you buy one crate and use it from puppyhood through adulthood.

What to watch out for: Wire crates can rattle when a dog moves around, which may disturb light sleepers in the household. Placing a piece of cardboard or a mat between the tray and the wire base usually solves this. Some dogs prefer a more enclosed space, in which case you can drape a blanket or crate cover over the top and sides. Wire crates are also heavier than other types, though this weight contributes to their stability.

Plastic Crates

Plastic crates — sometimes called airline kennels or travel kennels — are the enclosed, shell-like crates with a wire door at the front and ventilation holes along the sides.

What makes them good: They create a naturally den-like environment with limited visibility, which suits dogs that are nervous, reactive, or prefer privacy. They are easy to clean (the top and bottom halves separate). Most importantly, they meet the requirements for airline travel, making them essential if you plan to fly with your dog. They are also more insulating than wire crates, which can be beneficial in colder conditions.

What to watch out for: Ventilation is significantly reduced compared to wire crates, which can be a problem in hot weather or for breeds prone to overheating. Plastic absorbs odours over time and, despite being easy to wipe down, can develop a persistent smell after prolonged use. They are bulky and do not fold flat, which makes storage more difficult. Most plastic crates do not come with divider panels, so you may need to buy multiple sizes as a puppy grows.

Soft-Sided Crates

Soft crates are made from fabric — usually nylon or polyester — stretched over a lightweight metal or fibreglass frame. They look similar to small pop-up tents.

What makes them good: They are the lightest option by a significant margin, making them ideal for travel, camping, dog shows, and situations where portability matters most. Most collapse down to a very compact size and some come with carrying bags. They set up in seconds.

What to watch out for: Soft crates are not suitable for dogs that chew, scratch, or are determined to escape. A motivated dog can tear through fabric in minutes. They are not appropriate for unsupervised use or for house training, because a puppy can easily push through the material. They are also more difficult to clean after accidents. Soft crates work best for calm, well-trained dogs that are already comfortable in a crate.

Heavy-Duty Crates

These are built from thick steel bars, welded joints, and reinforced latches. They are designed for dogs that can destroy standard wire or plastic crates.

What makes them good: For dogs with severe separation anxiety, extreme chewing behaviour, or a proven ability to escape from other crate types, a heavy-duty crate may be the only safe option. The construction is robust enough to contain very powerful dogs without risk of injury from broken wire or chewed plastic.

What to watch out for: They are expensive — significantly more than any other type. They are extremely heavy and not portable. And if your dog is destroying crates due to anxiety, the crate alone is not the solution. A heavy-duty crate contains the dog safely while you address the underlying issue with training, behavioural support, or veterinary advice. The crate manages the problem; it does not fix it.

Furniture-Style Crates

These are crates built to look like furniture — end tables, side tables, or credenzas with ventilated panels and a door. The dog's crate doubles as a piece of household furniture.

What makes them good: They look attractive and blend into your home decor. For owners who dislike the visual impact of a wire crate in their living room, furniture crates solve the aesthetic problem entirely. They are generally well-made from wood or engineered wood with a solid, permanent feel.

What to watch out for: They are not suitable for dogs that chew — a determined chewer will damage the wood quickly. They cannot be moved easily and do not fold or disassemble. They offer limited ventilation compared to wire crates. And because they are designed as fixed furniture, they are not useful for travel. Furniture crates work best for adult dogs that are already crate-trained and calm.

Getting the Size Right — The Single Most Important Decision

More crate purchases go wrong because of size than for any other reason. Too large and the crate loses its den-like quality — and for puppies being house-trained, an oversized crate allows them to toilet at one end and sleep at the other, which defeats the purpose. Too small and the dog is cramped, uncomfortable, and stressed.

The rule is simple: your dog should be able to stand up without their head touching the top, turn around without difficulty, and lie down fully stretched out. Beyond that, you want minimal extra space.

How to Measure Your Dog for a Crate

You need two measurements.

Length: Measure from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail (not the tip of the tail). Add approximately 5 to 10 centimetres (2 to 4 inches) to give comfortable room.

Height: Measure from the floor to the top of the head while the dog is sitting upright. For breeds with upright ears, measure to the ear tips. Add 5 to 10 centimetres.

These two numbers give you the minimum internal dimensions you need. If the crate you are considering falls between sizes, always go up rather than down.

Crate Sizes by Breed Group

Crate manufacturers use standardised size categories, though the exact dimensions vary slightly between brands. As a general guide:

Crate Size Approximate Length Typical Breeds
Extra Small (46-56 cm / 18-22 in) Up to 56 cm Chihuahua, Yorkshire Terrier, Toy Poodle
Small (61 cm / 24 in) Up to 61 cm Jack Russell, Pug, Miniature Dachshund
Medium (76 cm / 30 in) Up to 76 cm Cocker Spaniel, Beagle, French Bulldog
Intermediate (91 cm / 36 in) Up to 91 cm English Bulldog, Border Collie, Springer Spaniel
Large (107 cm / 42 in) Up to 107 cm Labrador, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd
Extra Large (122 cm / 48 in) Up to 122 cm Rottweiler, Dobermann, Weimaraner
Giant (137 cm / 54 in) Up to 137 cm Great Dane, Irish Wolfhound, Newfoundland

Always check the specific manufacturer's size chart before buying, because dimensions can vary by several centimetres between brands and models.

Puppies: Buying for Growth

You have two options. You can buy a crate sized for the puppy now and replace it as they grow — which works, but means buying two or three crates over the first year. Or you can buy a crate sized for the adult dog and use a divider panel to reduce the internal space while the puppy is small, moving the divider back as they grow.

The divider approach is more cost-effective and is the standard recommendation for most breeds. Wire crates are the best choice here because most come with a divider included or have one available as an accessory.

Crate Features That Actually Matter

Some features are genuinely useful. Others are marketing.

Removable trays — Essential. You need to be able to slide the tray out for cleaning. If the crate does not have a removable tray, look elsewhere.

Divider panels — Important if you are buying for a puppy. Check whether one is included or available separately.

Multiple doors — A second door on the side can be useful for positioning the crate in tight spaces, but it is a convenience rather than a necessity.

Fold-flat mechanism — Valuable if you need to store or transport the crate. Most wire crates fold flat. Check the folding mechanism is smooth and does not pinch fingers.

Latch security — The door latch should be firm and not easily opened by a clever paw. Slide-bolt latches are more secure than simple spring clips. For escape-prone dogs, look for double-latch or locking mechanisms.

Wheels — Useful for heavy crates that need to be moved occasionally. Not necessary for most situations.

Doors, Dividers, and Access Points

Single-door crates are perfectly adequate for most dogs. The door should open smoothly, stay open without swinging shut, and close securely with a positive click. Double-door crates offer more flexibility in placement — if your living room only has space for the crate against a wall, a side door means the dog is not entering and exiting against the wall.

For puppy owners, the divider is arguably the most important accessory. A well-designed divider clips securely to the crate sides and can be repositioned without tools as the puppy grows.

Where to Put the Crate in Your Home

Place the crate somewhere the family spends time — not in a distant room, a garage, or an outbuilding. Dogs are social animals. Isolating them in a crate in an empty room combines two things that cause stress: confinement and separation.

The living room or a quiet corner of the kitchen often works well. Avoid placing the crate in direct sunlight, next to radiators, or in draughty spots. If your home gets warm in summer, a wire crate is preferable to a plastic one for the extra airflow.

Many owners keep a crate in the bedroom at night, particularly during the first weeks with a new puppy. The puppy can hear and smell you, which reduces anxiety and makes the early nights significantly easier.

Crate Training: The Basics Done Right

The full details of crate training are beyond the scope of a buying guide, but the principles matter because they affect what crate you choose.

Crate training should always be gradual and positive. The crate door should be left open initially, with treats and meals placed inside to create positive associations. Closing the door happens only once the dog is entering voluntarily and relaxed. Duration is built up slowly — seconds, then minutes, then longer periods.

Never use the crate as punishment. If the dog associates the crate with being told off, the training fails. The crate should predict good things — food, comfortable rest, a favourite chew toy.

A well-introduced crate usually becomes the dog's preferred resting spot within a few weeks. Many dogs will take themselves to their crate voluntarily when they are tired, overstimulated, or simply want quiet time.

Using a Crate for Travel

Airline Requirements

If you plan to fly with your dog, crate choice matters enormously. Airlines have specific requirements for in-cabin carriers and cargo-hold kennels, and these vary between airlines and between domestic and international flights.

General requirements for cargo-hold crates typically include: the crate must be made from rigid plastic or fibreglass (wire and soft crates are not accepted), the door must have a secure metal latch, there must be ventilation on at least three sides, the crate must be large enough for the dog to stand, turn, and lie down, and food and water dishes must be attachable to the door.

Always check your specific airline's pet travel policy before buying. Requirements change, and getting it wrong can mean your dog is refused at check-in.

Car Travel Safety

A crate is one of the safest ways to transport a dog in a car. In the event of sudden braking or a collision, an unsecured dog becomes a projectile — dangerous to themselves and to every human in the vehicle.

For car use, the crate should be secured so it cannot slide or tip. Plastic crates and wire crates both work, though plastic crates offer more protection in an impact. The crate should be positioned in the boot or cargo area of the vehicle, or on the back seat with the seatbelt threaded through or around it. Soft crates are not appropriate for car travel safety, because they offer no structural protection.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make

Buying too large. The most common error. A crate that is too roomy loses the den-like quality and makes house training harder. Size for the dog, not for the room.

Buying based on price alone. Very cheap crates often have weak latches, flimsy wire, and trays that warp. You will end up replacing them. Mid-range products from established manufacturers are almost always a better investment.

Choosing soft-sided for a puppy. Puppies chew. They scratch. They test every boundary. A soft crate will not survive. Start with wire or plastic and move to soft later, once the dog is trained and calm.

Forgetting the car. If you plan to transport the dog, check whether the crate fits in your vehicle before buying. Measure the boot space and compare it to the crate dimensions. This seems obvious, but it catches people surprisingly often.

Placing the crate in isolation. A crate in the spare bedroom or utility room may be out of sight, but it also separates the dog from the household. Dogs are pack animals. The crate should be where the family is.

Using the crate too much. A crate is not a substitute for exercise, training, and companionship. Adult dogs should not be crated for more than four to five hours during the day. Puppies, less — their bladder capacity is smaller and they need more frequent toilet breaks.

Crate Type Comparison Table

Feature Wire Plastic Soft-Sided Heavy-Duty Furniture
Ventilation Excellent Limited Good Good Moderate
Visibility Full Limited Moderate Full Moderate
Portability Folds flat Bulky Very portable Very heavy Fixed
Durability Good Good Low Excellent Moderate
Chew resistance Good Moderate Poor Excellent Poor
Airline approved No Yes (most) No No No
Puppy suitable Yes (with divider) Yes No Not usually needed No
Aesthetics Functional Functional Casual Industrial Attractive
Ease of cleaning Good Good Difficult Good Moderate
Noise level Can rattle Quiet Quiet Can rattle Quiet

Pre-Purchase Checklist

Before buying, confirm the following:

  • You have measured your dog's length and height (or researched the expected adult size for your puppy's breed)
  • The crate allows the dog to stand, turn, and lie down with a small margin — but no more
  • If buying for a puppy, a divider is included or available
  • The door latch is secure and cannot be opened by a determined paw
  • The tray is removable for cleaning
  • The crate fits in your intended location at home
  • If for car use, you have measured your boot or cargo area
  • If for air travel, you have checked your airline's specific requirements
  • You have a plan for gradual crate training — not just immediate confinement

Why Buying Through Amazon Makes Sense

Dog crates are bulky, heavy, and awkward to transport from a physical shop. Having one delivered directly to your door avoids the logistical hassle entirely. Amazon also makes it straightforward to compare sizes, read other buyers' experiences, and return a crate that does not work — which matters, because getting the right size sometimes takes a second attempt.

The marketplace brings together products from specialist pet brands that may not be stocked in general retailers, giving you a wider selection than most high street shops can offer.

Amazon Marketplace Protections

When buying through Amazon, you are protected by several consumer safeguards. Amazon's A-to-Z Guarantee covers purchases where items are not as described or do not arrive, regardless of whether the seller is Amazon directly or a third-party marketplace seller. Returns are typically straightforward, with free return shipping on many pet products. Customer reviews, while not always perfect, provide a body of real-world feedback that is often more useful than manufacturer specifications alone — particularly for products like crates where fit and build quality vary significantly.

What to Be Honest About — Limitations of This Guide

This guide helps you choose the right type and size of crate. It does not replace professional advice on crate training — if your dog has separation anxiety, destructive behaviour, or a fear of confinement, consult a qualified dog trainer or veterinary behaviourist before purchasing a crate. A crate alone does not solve behavioural problems; it manages them while you address the root cause.

We do not endorse the use of crates as long-term confinement. No dog should spend the majority of their day in a crate. If your lifestyle means the dog would be crated for eight or more hours regularly, a crate may not be the right solution — a dog-proofed room, a dog walker, or daycare may be more appropriate.

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