The Complete Guide to Darts Equipment — Precision, Practice, and the Perfect Setup

Steel Tip vs Soft Tip — Two Different Games

Steel tip darts have sharp metal points and are used with traditional bristle dartboards. This is the standard for professional competition, pub leagues, and serious home play. The dart penetrates the board's sisal fibres and stays where it lands.

Soft tip darts have flexible plastic points and are used with electronic dartboards. The points trigger sensors on the board, which automatically calculates and displays the score. Soft tip darts are lighter (typically 14–20g), safer around children, and popular for casual and social play.

Which should you choose? If you want to play the game as seen on television and in competitions, steel tip is the standard. If you want automatic scoring, a safer environment for children, or primarily casual social play, soft tip electronic boards are a practical and enjoyable alternative.

The Anatomy of a Dart

Every dart consists of four parts that can be mixed and matched:

Point (tip) — the front section that enters the board. Steel or plastic depending on board type.

Barrel — the main body where you grip the dart. The most important component affecting how the dart feels and performs.

Shaft (stem) — connects the barrel to the flight. Affects the dart's balance and flight trajectory.

Flight — the wing-shaped section at the rear that stabilises the dart in the air.

Each component is replaceable, which means a single set of barrels can be customised with different shafts, flights, and points to suit your developing style.

Barrel Material — Brass, Nickel-Silver, and Tungsten

The barrel material determines the dart's size, weight distribution, and durability.

Brass is the cheapest material. Brass is less dense than tungsten, meaning brass barrels are physically larger (fatter) for a given weight. This makes tight groupings more difficult because the barrels take up more space on the board. Brass darts are perfectly adequate for beginners and casual play.

Nickel-silver is slightly denser than brass, producing marginally thinner barrels at the same weight. A step up in quality at a modest increase in cost.

Tungsten is the standard for serious darts. Tungsten is dense — much denser than brass — which means tungsten barrels can be thin while remaining heavy. Thinner barrels allow darts to be grouped closer together on the board, which directly improves scoring potential in the treble and double segments.

Tungsten content is expressed as a percentage — 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%. Higher tungsten percentages produce thinner barrels for the same weight. For most players, 80–90% tungsten offers an excellent balance of performance and value. 95% tungsten is a premium choice that provides marginal additional thinness.

For beginners: Brass or nickel-silver is fine while learning fundamentals. For improving players: 80% tungsten is the natural upgrade that most players notice immediately. For competitive players: 90%+ tungsten for the thinnest possible barrel.

Barrel Weight

Darts are available from about 12g to 50g, though the vast majority of players throw between 18g and 28g.

Lighter darts (18–22g) require a faster throw to reach the board with accuracy. They are easier to throw quickly and suit players with a brisk, snappy action.

Heavier darts (22–28g) carry more momentum and can be thrown with a smoother, more measured action. Many beginners find heavier darts easier to control initially because they require less force to fly straight.

The honest advice: There is no correct weight. Weight is entirely personal preference. If possible, try darts of different weights before buying — throw a friend's darts, visit a darts shop, or buy a multi-weight trial set. Most players settle somewhere between 22g and 26g.

Barrel Grip and Shape

The barrel surface texture determines how securely you hold the dart and how cleanly it releases.

Knurled (cross-hatched) grip provides aggressive texture for a secure hold. Good for players who grip firmly.

Ringed grip features horizontal grooves that provide finger placement reference points and a medium level of grip.

Smooth grip suits players who hold the dart lightly and want a clean, unimpeded release.

Barrel shape affects where the weight sits: front-weighted (torpedo), rear-weighted, or centre-weighted (straight). Front-weighted barrels suit players who release from the front of the dart. Straight barrels are the most common and versatile shape.

Shafts (Stems)

Shafts connect the barrel to the flight and come in different lengths and materials.

Length affects stability and trajectory. Shorter shafts produce a more direct flight with less arc. Longer shafts create more stability and a higher arc. Start with medium length and adjust based on how your darts fly.

Material: Nylon shafts are cheap, light, and widely available — the standard starting point. Aluminium shafts are more rigid and durable but can work loose from the barrel during play (rubber O-rings between shaft and barrel solve this). Carbon fibre shafts are light and strong — a premium option.

Shafts are consumable — they break, especially when incoming darts hit them. Buy spares. Nylon shafts are cheap enough to treat as disposable.

Flights

Flights are the fins at the rear of the dart. They stabilise the dart during flight and significantly affect trajectory.

Standard shape (wide, kite-shaped) is the most common and provides maximum air resistance, stabilising the dart at a higher arc. Good for most players.

Slim shape produces less drag, resulting in a flatter, faster flight. Suits players who throw hard and straight.

Other shapes (pear, teardrop, vortex) offer variations between these extremes.

Material and thickness. Flights range from thin (75 micron) to thick (180 micron). Thicker flights are more durable but heavier. 100 micron is a sensible starting point.

Like shafts, flights are consumable. They tear, crease, and deform with use. Keep spares available and replace them when they show damage — a damaged flight destabilises the dart.

Points (Tips)

Steel tip points rarely need attention unless they become blunt (causing bounce-outs where the dart hits the wire and falls out) or bent. A dart sharpener (a small abrasive stone) restores the point. Points should be gently rounded — not needle-sharp, which causes the dart to skim off the wire rather than entering the board cleanly.

Soft tip points are plastic and need regular replacement. They crack and break with use. Buy in bulk — they are inexpensive.

Dartboards — Bristle vs Electronic

Bristle boards are made from compressed sisal fibres (not actual bristles — the name is historical). The fibres self-heal: when a dart is removed, the fibres close back together, maintaining the board's surface. Quality bristle boards last for years of regular use.

The wiring (the metal dividers between segments) affects bounce-out rates. Thinner wire reduces bounce-outs and improves the playing experience. The best boards use blade wire (triangular cross-section) that deflects darts into the scoring segment rather than causing them to bounce. The industry-standard board for serious play uses this blade wire technology.

Rotate your board regularly. The 20 segment (and the treble 20) takes the most punishment. Rotating the number ring (the removable ring around the board) distributes wear evenly across all segments, significantly extending the board's life.

Electronic boards have a plastic surface with small holes. Soft tip darts are pushed into the holes, triggering sensors that automatically calculate the score. Electronic boards often include multiple game modes, multiplayer scoring, and sound effects. They are excellent for social play, families, and players who prefer automatic scoring.

The trade-off: Electronic boards do not provide the same feel as bristle boards. The sound, the resistance, and the satisfaction of a dart burying into sisal is a different experience from pressing a plastic point into a sensor. Serious players overwhelmingly prefer bristle boards.

Setting Up Your Board

Height: The centre of the bullseye should be 173cm (5 feet 8 inches) from the floor. This is the international standard for steel tip darts.

Throwing distance (oche): 237cm (7 feet 9¼ inches) from the face of the board to the oche (throwing line) for steel tip. Soft tip standard is slightly further at 244cm (8 feet).

Mounting: The board should be mounted flush on a flat wall, ideally on a dedicated mounting bracket. Ensure the board does not wobble when hit — a board that moves on impact is frustrating and damages the wall.

Surrounds, Cabinets, and Mats

Dartboard surround — a foam ring that fits around the board, protecting the surrounding wall from stray darts. Essential unless your wall is expendable. Available in various colours and thicknesses.

Dartboard cabinet — a wooden cabinet that houses the board and includes doors, a scoreboard (usually a chalkboard or whiteboard), and storage for darts. Attractive, protective, and practical for a dedicated games room.

Dart mat (oche mat) — a mat placed on the floor in front of the board. It protects flooring from dropped darts, marks the throwing distance, and provides a comfortable standing surface. A mat with the oche line printed on it eliminates the need for measuring.

Lighting. Proper lighting makes a significant difference. A dedicated dartboard light mounted above the board illuminates the surface evenly without casting shadows. This improves visibility of the segments and reduces eye strain during longer sessions. Ring lights designed to sit around the board are the most effective option.

Choosing Equipment for Your Level

The Honest Limitations

Darts is a skill game. No dart, regardless of its tungsten percentage or barrel design, throws itself. Consistent practice matters more than premium equipment. A skilled player with brass darts will outscore a beginner with the most expensive tungsten set available.

Flights and shafts are consumable. They break, tear, and wear out. Budget for regular replacement — fortunately, they are inexpensive.

Bristle boards wear out. Even the best boards eventually develop holes, particularly in the treble 20 segment. Rotating the number ring extends life significantly, but eventual replacement is inevitable for regular players.

Wall damage is real. Stray darts damage walls. A surround reduces this but does not eliminate it entirely, particularly for beginners who may miss the board entirely. Consider the wall behind and around the board before setting up.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make

Buying very cheap darts. Budget brass darts with rough finishes, poor balance, and inconsistent weights frustrate rather than help. A modest step up to nickel-silver or entry-level tungsten makes a noticeable difference.

Not replacing damaged flights. A torn, creased, or bent flight destabilises the dart. Flights are cheap — replace them as soon as they show damage.

Mounting the board at the wrong height. The bullseye at 173cm from the floor is the standard. Playing at the wrong height develops muscle memory that does not transfer to correctly mounted boards elsewhere.

Over-sharpening points. Needle-sharp points deflect off the wire. A gently rounded point enters the board more reliably.

Neglecting the surround. The first time a dart hits exposed plaster at full force, you will wish you had bought a surround. Invest from the start.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

• [ ] Have you decided between steel tip and soft tip?
• [ ] Is the barrel material appropriate for your level (brass for casual, tungsten for regular play)?
• [ ] Have you chosen a weight that feels comfortable (try before buying if possible)?
• [ ] Do you have spare flights and shafts?
• [ ] Is the board quality appropriate for your playing frequency?
• [ ] Have you measured the correct height and throwing distance for your setup?
• [ ] Do you have a surround to protect the wall?

Why Buying Through Amazon Makes Sense

Amazon stocks darts equipment from the sport's leading manufacturers alongside budget alternatives. Customer reviews are valuable for bristle boards (durability, wire quality, and bounce-out rates over time) and darts (weight accuracy, grip quality, and consistency across a set). The returns process helps with darts, where weight and grip are personal preferences that can only truly be assessed by throwing.

Darts rewards consistency above all else — the same stance, the same grip, the same release, throw after throw. The right equipment removes variables from that equation: a board that does not bounce darts out, barrels that sit naturally in your hand, flights that fly true. Everything else is between you and the twenty.