The Complete Guide to Diving and Snorkelling Equipment — See Clearly, Breathe Easily, Move Efficiently

Snorkelling vs Scuba Diving — Different Equipment Levels

Snorkelling requires three items: a mask, a snorkel, and fins. You swim on the surface, breathing through the snorkel, and looking down through the mask. Snorkelling is accessible to almost anyone who can swim, requires no certification, and the equipment is simple and affordable.

Scuba diving requires significantly more equipment: a regulator (the breathing apparatus), a buoyancy control device (BCD), a tank, a wetsuit or drysuit, a dive computer, and training certification. Scuba equipment is a major investment — most new divers rent the expensive items (regulator, BCD, tank) and own only their personal fit items (mask, snorkel, fins, wetsuit, boots).

This guide focuses primarily on snorkelling equipment and the personal items that scuba divers purchase first. If you are beginning scuba training, your dive school will guide you on additional equipment as you progress.

The Mask — Fit Is Everything

The mask is the most important piece of snorkelling equipment. If it leaks, fogs, or presses uncomfortably, everything else becomes irrelevant.

The fit test. Place the mask on your face without putting the strap around your head. Press it gently, inhale through your nose, and let go. A well-fitting mask stays in place — held by the slight vacuum your breath creates. If it falls off or you feel air leaking in around the skirt, the mask does not fit your face shape. Try another.

No amount of strap tightening compensates for a poor seal. If the mask requires the strap pulled very tight to stay on, it does not fit. Over-tightened straps cause headaches and actually distort the skirt, making leaks worse.

Lens material. Always choose tempered glass. Tempered glass resists fogging better than plastic, provides clearer vision, and if it breaks, it fractures into small, blunt pieces rather than sharp shards. Plastic lenses fog easily, scratch quickly, and offer inferior clarity.

Single lens vs dual lens. Single-lens masks provide a wider field of view. Dual-lens masks (two separate lenses with a nose bridge between them) accommodate prescription lens inserts and allow you to pinch your nose for equalising pressure when diving beneath the surface.

Skirt material. Silicone skirts are the standard on quality masks. They are soft, comfortable, create a reliable seal, and last for years. Clear silicone allows more peripheral light; black silicone reduces glare. Either works well — personal preference.

Volume. Low-volume masks sit closer to the face and contain less air. This matters primarily for divers who descend and need to equalise (blow air into the mask to balance pressure). For surface snorkelling, higher-volume masks with larger lenses provide a wider view.

The Snorkel — Keep It Simple

A snorkel is a tube that allows you to breathe while your face is submerged. The best snorkel for most people is the simplest one that keeps water out of your mouth.

Dry snorkels have a float valve at the top that seals when submerged, preventing water from entering the tube. They are the best choice for surface snorkellers who do not dive beneath the surface — they keep water out effectively and reduce the need to clear the snorkel.

Semi-dry snorkels have a splash guard at the top that deflects surface water without fully sealing. They allow some water entry from waves but prevent most splashing. A good compromise between simplicity and water protection.

Classic (wet) snorkels are simple open tubes with no valve mechanism. Water enters freely when waves wash over the top or when you submerge. You clear the snorkel by exhaling sharply (blast clearing). These are the simplest, lightest, and most reliable design — preferred by experienced snorkellers and divers because there is nothing to fail.

Purge valves sit at the bottom of the snorkel near the mouthpiece. They allow water to drain out with a gentle exhale rather than requiring a forceful blast clear. Most quality snorkels include a purge valve regardless of the top design.

The mouthpiece should be comfortable in your mouth without requiring you to bite hard to hold it in place. Silicone mouthpieces are softer and more comfortable than rubber. An uncomfortable mouthpiece causes jaw fatigue over extended snorkelling sessions.

Fins — Full Foot vs Open Heel

Fins provide propulsion. Without fins, swimming against even a mild current is exhausting. With fins, the same effort moves you significantly faster and with far less fatigue.

Full-foot fins enclose the entire foot like a shoe. They are light, compact, easy to put on, and work well for warm-water snorkelling from boats or sandy beaches. You wear them barefoot or with thin reef socks.

Open-heel fins have an adjustable strap across the back of the heel and are worn with neoprene boots. They are the standard for scuba diving and are preferred for shore entries over rocks, coral, and uneven surfaces. The boots protect your feet; the fins provide propulsion. Open-heel fins are more versatile but bulkier and heavier.

Blade length. Shorter fins are easier on the legs and suitable for casual snorkelling. Longer fins provide more thrust per kick but require stronger legs and more effort. Very long freediving fins are specialist equipment, not suited to recreational snorkelling.

Fit. Fins should be snug but not painfully tight. A fin that is too loose causes blisters; a fin that is too tight causes cramp. If ordering online, check the manufacturer's size chart carefully — fin sizing varies between brands.

Snorkelling Sets vs Individual Components

Many retailers sell mask-snorkel-fin sets as packages. These can offer good value for beginners who want a complete, matched kit at a lower price than buying each component separately.

The trade-off: Sets often include a one-size-fits-most approach, particularly for the mask. If the mask does not fit your face, the entire set is compromised. A mask that leaks makes the snorkel and fins irrelevant.

The recommendation: If you can try a mask on before buying, a set can be excellent value. If ordering blind (online without trying), consider buying the mask individually based on face-shape reviews, and the snorkel and fins as a set or separately.

Moving to Scuba — Additional Equipment

If you progress from snorkelling to scuba diving, the first personal items to purchase are:

Mask, snorkel, and fins — you likely already own these from snorkelling. Ensure your mask is a dual-lens design suitable for equalising at depth, and your fins are open-heel (worn with boots).

Wetsuit or exposure protection — matched to the water temperature where you will dive. See our separate wetsuit guide for detailed temperature-to-thickness guidance.

Boots — neoprene boots worn with open-heel fins. They protect your feet from cold, rocks, and boat decks.

Dive computer — tracks your depth, bottom time, and decompression status. This is a safety-critical piece of equipment. Your dive training will cover how to use one.

Regulator, BCD, and tank — rent these until you are diving regularly. They are expensive, require professional servicing, and rental equipment is readily available at dive centres worldwide.

Wetsuits and Exposure Protection

Even in warm tropical water, extended time in the water draws heat from the body. A thin wetsuit or rash guard provides insulation, UV protection, and protection from stinging marine life.

For snorkelling in tropical water (above 24°C / 75°F), a rash guard or 1–2mm wetsuit is usually sufficient. For cooler water, follow the temperature-to-thickness guidance in our wetsuit article.

UV protection is particularly important while snorkelling. You float face-down on the surface for extended periods, exposing your back, shoulders, and legs to direct sunlight reflected and intensified by the water. Sunburn through snorkelling is extremely common and easily prevented by wearing a rash guard with UPF protection.

Mask Care and Anti-Fog

New mask preparation. New masks have a thin film of manufacturing residue on the inside of the lenses that causes persistent fogging. Before first use, scrub the inside of each lens with a mild, non-gel toothpaste using your fingers, rinse thoroughly, and repeat two or three times. This removes the residue and dramatically reduces fogging.

Anti-fog solution (commercial or a drop of baby shampoo rubbed on the inside of the lens and rinsed lightly) applied before each snorkel session prevents fogging during use.

Rinse after every use. Salt water, sand, and sunscreen degrade silicone, corrode buckles, and cloud lenses. A thorough freshwater rinse after every session extends the life of your mask significantly.

Store out of direct sunlight. UV radiation degrades silicone and can cause clear skirts to yellow and stiffen over time.

Prescription Options

If you wear glasses, you cannot wear them under a snorkelling mask. Several options exist.

Prescription lens masks — some manufacturers offer masks with prescription lenses built in or available as snap-in inserts. These are the best solution for regular snorkellers who need vision correction.

Adhesive prescription lenses — stick-on corrective lenses that attach to the inside of a standard mask. A less expensive option that works with any mask.

Contact lenses — many snorkellers and divers wear contact lenses under their mask with no problems. Soft lenses are preferred over hard lenses. Be aware that if your mask floods, lenses may wash out.

Safety Equipment for Snorkelling

A snorkel vest is an inflatable vest that provides buoyancy at the surface. It is valuable for less confident swimmers, children, and anyone snorkelling in currents or deep water. It allows you to float comfortably without treading water, conserving energy for actually enjoying the snorkelling.

Reef-safe sunscreen protects your skin without contributing to coral bleaching. Chemical sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate damage coral — choose mineral-based, reef-safe alternatives.

A buddy. Snorkel with a companion whenever possible. If you experience cramp, exhaustion, or equipment failure, having someone nearby is the most important safety measure available.

Full-Face Snorkel Masks — A Caution

Full-face snorkel masks cover the entire face and allow breathing through both nose and mouth. They are marketed as easier for beginners because they eliminate the mouthpiece.

Significant safety concerns exist. Full-face masks can trap exhaled carbon dioxide, causing dizziness and disorientation. They are difficult to remove quickly in an emergency. They are not suitable for diving beneath the surface. Several drowning incidents have been linked to full-face mask designs.

The recommendation: A traditional separate mask and snorkel is safer, more reliable, and allows you to clear water, remove equipment, and breathe normally in any situation. For beginners who find a mouthpiece uncomfortable, a snorkel with a comfortable silicone mouthpiece and a purge valve is a better solution than a full-face mask.

Choosing Your Equipment

The Honest Limitations

Masks fog. Even with proper preparation and anti-fog treatment, some fogging can occur. Accept it, manage it, and do not buy increasingly expensive masks hoping to eliminate it entirely.

Snorkels let in water. Waves, submersion, and imperfect technique all result in water in the snorkel. Learning to clear your snorkel calmly is part of snorkelling, not a sign of faulty equipment.

Fins take practice. Efficient finning uses slow, wide kicks from the hips — not rapid, small kicks from the knees. Poor technique wastes energy regardless of fin quality.

Cheap sets have cheap masks. Budget snorkelling sets often include masks with poor-fitting skirts and plastic lenses. The fins and snorkel may be adequate, but the mask determines the experience.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make

Buying a mask without checking fit. The most common mistake. A beautiful mask that does not seal to your face is useless.

Over-tightening the mask strap. A well-fitting mask needs only gentle strap tension. Over-tightening distorts the skirt, worsens leaks, and causes headaches.

Choosing a full-face mask as a beginner. Traditional mask-and-snorkel is safer, more versatile, and easier to manage in unexpected situations.

Ignoring UV protection. Snorkelling exposes your back to hours of direct and reflected UV radiation. Wear a rash guard, not just sunscreen.

Not rinsing equipment after use. Saltwater corrodes, sand scratches, and sunscreen degrades silicone. Rinse everything in fresh water after every session.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

• [ ] Have you tested the mask fit (suction test without strap)?
• [ ] Does the mask use tempered glass lenses?
• [ ] Is the snorkel type appropriate for your use (dry for surface, classic for diving)?
• [ ] Do the fins fit comfortably (with boots if open-heel)?
• [ ] Do you have UV protection (rash guard or reef-safe sunscreen)?
• [ ] If you need vision correction: have you arranged prescription lenses or contacts?

Why Buying Through Amazon Makes Sense

Amazon carries snorkelling and diving equipment from all the major brands. Customer reviews are exceptionally useful for masks — real-world fit reports from people with different face shapes provide the closest substitute for trying a mask on in person. Reviews on snorkel sets help identify which budget packages include genuinely decent masks versus those with poor sealing skirts. The returns process is particularly valuable for masks, where fit cannot be guaranteed from specifications alone.

Good snorkelling equipment is equipment you forget you are wearing. The mask seals without pressure, the snorkel breathes without effort, and the fins propel you without fatigue. When the equipment disappears, what remains is the reef, the fish, the light filtering through the water, and the unhurried pleasure of watching a world that most people only ever see on a screen.