The Complete Guide to Pool, Snooker, and Billiards Equipment — Cues, Tables, and Everything on the Baize

Pool vs Snooker vs Billiards — The Key Differences

Pool (also called pocket billiards) is played on a smaller table (typically 7ft or 8ft) with sixteen balls — one cue ball, seven solids, seven stripes, and the black 8-ball. Pool cues typically have a wider tip (12–13mm) and the balls are larger (57.15mm / 2.25 inches).

Snooker is played on a larger table (10ft or 12ft, the full-size competition standard) with twenty-two balls — one cue ball, fifteen reds, and six colours. Snooker cues have a narrower tip (9–10mm) for the greater precision demanded by the smaller balls (52.5mm / 2.07 inches) and the tighter pockets.

Billiards (English billiards or carom billiards) is played on a snooker-sized table with just three balls. It is a game of cannons, in-offs, and potting that predates both pool and snooker.

The equipment differs between games. A snooker cue is too narrow for comfortable pool play; a pool cue is too wide for snooker precision. Balls are different sizes. Tables are different dimensions. If you play primarily one game, buy equipment for that game.

Choosing a Cue

Your cue is the most personal piece of equipment. It is the only thing that contacts the cue ball, and therefore the only thing through which you control every shot.

One-piece cues are used in clubs and venues. They cannot be transported easily and are stored at the table.

Two-piece cues are the standard for personal ownership. They split at the centre (or three-quarter point for snooker cues) for transport in a cue case. The joint should be secure with no play or wobble — a loose joint transfers vibration and deadens feel.

Weight. Pool cues typically weigh between 500g and 600g (17–21oz). Snooker cues are generally lighter, around 450g–520g (16–18.5oz). The right weight feels balanced and natural in your bridge hand — neither so heavy that the cue drops on your follow-through, nor so light that you push rather than stroke.

Length. Standard cue length is approximately 145–150cm (57–58 inches). Most adults play comfortably with a standard length. Taller players may benefit from a slightly longer cue; shorter players or children from a shorter one.

Material. Cues are made from wood — ash is the traditional British choice for snooker (with a visible grain that helps align the cue to the shot), while maple is the standard for American pool cues (denser, smoother, with a cleaner finish). Budget cues may use other hardwoods or laminated construction. At entry level, a solid ash or maple cue provides everything a developing player needs.

For beginners: A two-piece cue in the correct size and weight from a recognised manufacturer is the right starting point. Avoid the cheapest available (poorly weighted, loose joints, inconsistent tips) and the most expensive (diminishing returns until your technique demands the difference).

Cue Tips

The tip is the small disc of leather (or synthetic material) glued to the end of the cue. It is the only point of contact with the cue ball and directly affects grip, spin, and control.

Tip diameter must match the game. Snooker tips are 9–10mm; pool tips are 12–13mm. Using the wrong size prevents proper cueing technique.

Tip hardness affects play. Soft tips compress more on contact, gripping the cue ball for greater spin potential but wearing faster and requiring more maintenance. Hard tips maintain their shape longer and provide consistency but apply less spin. Medium tips are the standard recommendation for most players — a practical balance of grip, durability, and consistency.

Tip maintenance: Tips must be shaped (maintaining a dome profile) and roughened periodically to hold chalk. A flat or glazed tip skids off the cue ball (a "miscue") instead of gripping it. A simple tip tool (shaper/scuffer) is an inexpensive essential.

Tips wear out and must be replaced. This is normal maintenance, not a sign of a problem. A well-maintained tip lasts many months of regular play.

Cue Cases

A cue case protects your two-piece cue during transport and storage. It prevents warping, tip damage, and shaft scratches.

Soft cases are lightweight, affordable, and provide basic protection. They suit cues transported short distances.

Hard cases provide rigid protection and are essential for cues transported in vehicles, on public transport, or anywhere they may be knocked or compressed.

Case capacity. Most players need a case that holds one cue plus an extension (a butt extension for long shots across the table). Cases holding two or more cues suit those who carry a playing cue and a spare or a dedicated break cue.

Tables — Sizes and Types

Slate-bed tables use a precision-ground slate playing surface covered with cloth. Slate provides the truest, most consistent roll and is the standard for any serious playing table. It is also extremely heavy — a full-size snooker table with a three-piece slate bed can weigh over 1,000kg.

Non-slate tables (MDF, chipboard, or honeycomb) are lighter, cheaper, and easier to move. The roll quality is noticeably inferior to slate — balls wobble, deviate, and the surface develops imperfections faster. For casual home play, a quality MDF table is acceptable. For any player wanting to develop their game seriously, slate is the standard.

Cushions (the rubber rails surrounding the pockets) must be responsive and consistent. Worn or dead cushions rob the game of its dynamics. On a new table, cushion quality correlates closely with overall table quality.

Table Cloth

The cloth (also called baize or felt) covers the playing surface and cushions. It affects the speed, consistency, and feel of every shot.

Worsted cloth (such as Strachan or similar) has a smooth, nap-free surface that allows the ball to run fast and true. It is the standard for snooker and high-level pool. It shows marks less readily and lasts longer than woollen cloth.

Woollen cloth (napped cloth) has a directional texture. It is the traditional pub-table cloth and is cheaper than worsted. The nap affects ball behaviour — the ball runs slightly differently with the nap versus against it. Woollen cloth wears faster and shows marks more readily.

Cloth colour is traditionally green (imitating the grass of the lawn games from which billiards descended), but blue, red, and other colours are available and increasingly popular.

Balls

Pool balls are 57.15mm (2.25 inches) in diameter. A quality set is made from phenolic resin (the material used in professional sets). Polyester balls are cheaper but chip, yellow, and become inconsistent faster. A good set of phenolic resin pool balls is a worthwhile investment that lasts for many years.

Snooker balls are 52.5mm (2.07 inches) in diameter. Professional-grade snooker balls are precision-manufactured to extremely tight tolerances — consistent size, weight, and roundness across the set. For home play, a good-quality set from a recognised manufacturer provides an excellent playing experience without the cost of professional-grade balls.

Look after your balls. Clean them periodically to remove chalk residue and table dust. Dirty balls transfer grime to the cloth, accelerating wear.

Accessories

Chalk is applied to the cue tip before shots to increase friction between the tip and the cue ball, preventing miscues. Chalk is cheap and essential. Apply it before every shot as a habit.

Cue extensions (butts) are short extensions that screw into the base of the cue for shots that would otherwise require a full stretch across the table. A basic push-on or screw-in extension is a standard part of any player's kit.

Rest (spider/cross) — a bridge with a head that the cue slides along for shots where the cue ball is out of comfortable reach. Most clubs provide rests; home tables should have at least one.

Triangle/rack — the frame used to set up the balls at the start of each game. Wooden and plastic triangles are standard; some players prefer a template rack that lifts away cleanly.

Scoreboard — a traditional wall-mounted scoring device for snooker. Electronic scoreboards and phone apps serve the same purpose.

Table brush — a dedicated brush for sweeping the cloth. Brush in one direction (with the nap on woollen cloth). Regular brushing removes chalk dust and keeps the cloth clean.

Table cover — a fitted cover that protects the cloth from dust, sunlight, and accidental damage when the table is not in use. Particularly important for home tables.

Setting Up a Home Table

Space is the critical constraint. A table requires clearance on all sides for cueing. The minimum room size for a given table includes the table dimensions plus at least 150cm (5ft) on every side — the length of a cue fully extended behind the player. Measure your room before purchasing.

Floor strength matters for slate-bed tables. A full-size snooker table is extremely heavy. Upper floors in residential buildings may require structural assessment.

Lighting should be even across the entire table surface, without shadows or glare. A dedicated table light (a long shade suspended above the table) is the standard solution.

Levelling is critical. A table that is not perfectly level produces a false roll that masks skill and builds bad habits. Professional installation includes precision levelling.

Choosing Your Equipment

The Honest Limitations

A home table requires significant space. Even a 6ft pool table needs a room large enough for cueing on all sides. Measure before buying — a table in a room that is too small is unplayable.

Non-slate tables compromise the game. They are lighter and cheaper, but the roll quality will always be inferior. If space and budget allow, slate is the correct choice for any player who wants to improve.

Cue skill takes time. A quality cue supports development but does not replace practice. Consistent technique, developed over months and years, determines your standard of play.

Table maintenance is ongoing. Cloth wears, cushions degrade, and slate beds can shift. A home table is a long-term commitment that includes periodic re-clothing and professional servicing.

Common Mistakes Buyers Make

Not measuring the room. The most common home-table mistake. Without full cueing clearance, you cannot play properly and the table becomes furniture.

Buying the cheapest cue available. Very cheap cues have loose joints, inconsistent weight, and poor tips. A modest step up provides dramatically better feel and durability.

Ignoring tip maintenance. A flat, glazed tip miscues constantly. Regular shaping and roughening with a tip tool takes seconds and prevents the most frustrating flaw in cue sports.

Choosing a non-slate table for serious play. If you intend to develop your game, the investment in slate pays for itself in playing quality.

Not covering the table when not in use. Dust, sunlight, and accidental spills damage cloth and fade colours. A simple cover extends the cloth life significantly.

Your Pre-Purchase Checklist

• [ ] Is the cue the correct length and weight for the player?
• [ ] Is the tip diameter appropriate for the game (9–10mm snooker, 12–13mm pool)?
• [ ] Do you have a cue case for protection during transport?
• [ ] If buying a table: have you measured the room including cueing clearance?
• [ ] If buying a table: is the floor strong enough for a slate bed?
• [ ] Do you have chalk, a tip tool, and a table brush?

Why Buying Through Amazon Makes Sense

Amazon carries cue sports equipment from budget to professional grade. Customer reviews are particularly valuable for cues (straightness, joint quality, and tip consistency), tables (slate quality, cushion response, and assembly difficulty), and balls (roundness, colour fastness, and chip resistance). Tables are a significant purchase — reviews from buyers who have lived with them for months provide insight that product descriptions cannot.

A game of pool or snooker reduces the world to a rectangle of cloth, a set of balls, and the problem of making one ball send another exactly where you intend. The cue is your only tool. When it fits your hand, responds to your stroke, and transfers your intention to the cue ball without interference — the game becomes what it should be: a conversation between your skill and the geometry of the table. Everything else is furniture.